Lessons in Ecotourism: A personal account from two months in Costa Rica
I spent two months travelling coast and country around Costa Rica between 2022 and 2023. As the world opened up in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, Costa Rica was one of the first to welcome back visitors. And as a restless traveller who had just spent two years indoors, I leapt at the chance to explore something new. A flight was booked with two months' notice and soon enough I found myself in the rainforest gawping at sloths and coasting down vast rivers alongside crocodiles and water buffalo.
A large part of what drew me to this sliver of green connecting vast continents was how it seemed so bursting with life—a boiling pot overflowing with flora and fauna. I was beyond intrigued to understand how it all worked. How did people and nature coexist so harmoniously? Did they? Or was it all a ruse? Costa Rica is renowned for their success in ecological living, and its endeavours in ecotourism have been central to this, but I was intrigued to understand what that really meant. What were they doing differently, why and how?
I initially spent a month out there in May 2022 and returned a year later for another month. Whilst my first stint consisted of hostel hopping, all-day bus journeys and lots of rice and beans, my second was far more luxurious. Travelling for work, I stayed in remote luxury lodges, met many of the country's most experienced industry professionals, and enjoyed some of the country's most exciting and dream-worthy activities.
Whilst my two visits were in no way alike, they both taught me equal and opposite lessons in how ecotourism can work. Costa Rica may be an ecological marvel to explore, but it does not rely on this alone to convince visitors of its worthy reputation as a leader in sustainable touring. Beyond the palm trees and toucans, is a collective effort to preserve a natural environment through local initiatives, governmental support, and a culture based upon mutual respect. When we extract these core principles, we can see how ecotourism need not be exclusive to the wildest of locations, but instead can be found all around the world, if consistent efforts are made by both tourism providers and consumers to further it.
Laying the groundwork
A pinnacle moment that would catalyse the country’s long-term commitment to ecological stewardship was made when the Costa Rican government took a somewhat unconventional decision to demilitarise and redistribute their budget towards education. This money went into funding five public universities around the country, which charge relatively low tuition fees and provide students with a comprehensive and well-rounded further education.
In my time there, I met a large handful of young people studying specialised courses in ecotourism. Some training in hotel management, hoping to one day open a property themselves, and many as aspiring young guides. Guides in particular receive a great deal of worthy respect in the ecotourism trade. For many, it is a career that lasts a lifetime. Their knowledge is both hugely broad and spectacularly precise. They can spot the most elusive creatures, recognise the faintest of bird song, and identify the most unusual of plant life. It is no surprise that many of these young students and professionals shared with me that ecotourism has become one of the most popular and coveted choices in majors. A career in ecotourism in Costa Rica is a long-term investment, both financially and ecologically.
An ecological mindset
Beyond the socio-economic foundations of ecotourism, there is a distinct cultural tone of respect for the environment, far surpassing anything I’d experienced before. Every life holds value. From the smallest of insects to the largest of mammals, there is an unspoken yet deep and tangible sense of local acceptance towards the natural. There is little separation between man and wilderness here. You will walk with snakes weaving down the road next to you. You will sunbathe with iguanas lounging in the tree above your head. You will have your snacks stolen by howler monkeys if you decide to sneak them into Manuel Antonio National Park! And yet, through it all, you start to feel yourself open up to the natural world. Did a crab just crawl under my bed? Yes, I think it did. But maybe that's what it's all about. The natural experience of Costa Rica is nothing like a trip to a zoo or even a so called ‘sanctuary’. It is an immersive and recurring interaction between every stem of the biological cycle. One in which those who live there engage in every day, and those who visit, sneak an exciting glimpse into.
Local initiatives
Some of Costa Rica’s most incredible tourism experiences are undoubtedly those which are locally owned and they exist at all measures of luxury and budget. It is not all remote lodges for thousands of dollars a night, nor is it all tents in the jungle (although these do exist too). But they are all markedly more in touch with local culture, environment and tradition.
One of my favourite experiences involved staying in a remote stretch of jungle along the San Carlos River. The property I found myself in was family-owned and almost entirely self-sustaining. During my visit, I took a private tour around the on-site farm which provided all of the produce required for the restaurant. They grew an eclectic variety of fruits and vegetables, from cacao to pink pineapples, and sourced their meat from local farmers. All of their employees were from the surrounding area - many of whom were gaining practical experience alongside their university degrees, and every generation of the family was involved in the upkeep and running of the property. Hot water was provided via solar power and the property itself was immersed within 68 acres of protected rainforest.
Part of the experience involved staying in a treehouse in the jungle. I can’t say it was the most restful night's sleep I’ve ever had but it was certainly one of the most enthralling. The sounds of the jungle are cacophonous and unrelenting. With insect nets taking the place of windows, there is no real closing the door on nature, and as I was travelling alone, it truly was just me and the jungle. That’s not to say my accommodation was uncomfortable. With soft king-size beds and a handcrafted bathroom, the stay offered luxury and comfort, without sacrificing my sense of connection to the environment that surrounded me. And in doing so, came this unique balance between comfort and adventure. Sleeping in the jungle is an incredible experience, not just because of the novelty of it, but actually because it is a reminder of just how much life this beautiful planet really does support. There is a homeliness in the jungle, because there is life in the jungle.
Connection over Hedonism
It is that which I think was so special about the experience travelling in Costa Rica. I didn’t feel as much a visitor, as I did a new cog in a centuries-old piece of clockwork. I was not looking at my surroundings through protective glass, I was immersed in them, and with that properly confronted by them. In the midst of this confrontation, I began to see it all differently. The location, the people, the point of my visit at all.
In my rethinking, I think I came to understand better what ecotourism truly is, or at least should be about. This feeling of renewed connection with an earthly environment we, as earthly beings, have always belonged to. The access to such an environment provided by those who rely on it and know it best, and the purpose of such an experience being the desire to explore the beauty of our world in a way that does not act in its detriment. In following these guiding principles, my travel experience became less about escape, and more about true discovery. Though I no longer find myself in Costa Rica, my tether to its landscapes remains. And my memories continue to offer new insight into just how impactful it had been.
My experience in Costa Rica therefore taught me an important lesson in what I now understand about ecotourism and ultimately, it comes down to a simple choice:
How do you wish to experience the world?
